Rabo de Toro

The rest of my stay in Sevilla was delightful. Kinda like a vacation within a vacation, spending the mornings sightseeing, and the HOT 100+ afternoons in the rooftop pool with a frosty Alhambra Negra beer in hand. Of course I went to another flamenco show- but this one was a very local scene, and we may have been the only tourists... well worth the walk across the river. It was improv´ dancing by family members of the owner and random couples in the audience. Got some good video to share later.

Ronda was a breezey and welcomed break from the heat and congestion of the bigger cities. It is small enough to walk around in about 2 hours, but absolutely stunning. It is surrounded on three sides by a deep gorge, which precedes the mountainscape of the Serranía de Ronda. There is no lack of walking trails along the gorge either. Enjoyed 1Euro tapas and beer the night i arrived, then set out for the Cuevas de las Piletas. Took the train, and arrived in Benaoján at about 7:45 am. and went into a little cafe near the station for coffee and directions to the caves. This was the first time I have gotten that ¨get the hell outta here¨feeling. There were about 7 men drinking straight liquor ... lots of it... before heading to their jobs (manual labor type stuff judging from shoes and clothes). They couldnt believe i was going to walk. ¨sola?¨ one said, asking if i was alone. i just said hm? like i didnt understand. Then another one said he would take me... i was a half second from jupming on the next train... anywhere, when in walked the sweet, safe policeman! he ended up giving me a ride all the way, so i just had to kill about an hour or so before the caves opened. I practiced using the self timer on my camera, and enjoyed the cool mountain morning. As it turns out, i ended up talking politics in spanish with the old man who owns the caves and gives the tour... he loved me, and after about three hours, we were best friends, and there were enough people there to go on the tour. The cuevas were awesome! Lots of paintings inside, some as old as 30,000 years old! Human and animal bones, old torch posts, fireplaces, paintings of a giant fish, calendars, mountains, bulls, horses, goats, shaymen, and more. One of the formations in the cave made hollowed out collumns that you could hit with your palm to make different tones... very cool! We had a gas lam for every five people, but i think everyone was jealous of my headlamp. Caught a ride halfway down the mountain with a Dutch couple, then ran hard the rest of the way so i would catch the next train. That night i treated myself to the local specialty of Rabo de Toro (aka Bull´s Tail)... i know, i know... but i would have been curious about it the rest of the trip if i didnt have it. Its basically just like stew beef on vertebrae looking bones. It was really salty, and so greasy that my lips would stick together! At least i tried it- lord know they kill enough bulls with all the bull fights down there. I had some bocadillas later on (mini sandwiches).

I did end up touring the bull ring. It was interesting, but the more I learn about it, the less i want to support any of it. Basically, you stick little spears into the bull until it is weak and delirious, then they stick a sword into the back of its neck.. hopefully killing it the first time. Ususally the bull has to suffer through two swipes of the sword before stammering off to die. !Olay!