Friday, December 23, 2016

Vinaka vaka levu, Fiji!

With the cyclone forcing me back to Nadi two days early, I decided to make the best of my time there. Luckily, I was able to book a nice room to myself back where I began at the Bamboo Backpackers Hostel. It's a lively international scene, with many locals also gathering for meals and drinks in the evenings. The staff here are super helpful and friendly, and I enjoy the evening kava ceremonies and sing-a-longs. 

The cyclone definitely brought rain like I'd never experienced- just dumping! This also brought out the frogs who occupied the grassy areas and street puddles. Feeling a bit stir crazy, I was able to gather a couple folks to share a cab and head out to the Sabeto Hotsprings and Mud Pools. $40 FJD, or about $20 USD paid for my portion of the cab, and entry fee to the quaint garden hotspring paradise. Located at the base of the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, a mountain named for its resemblance to its namesake, sits a family owned patch of land with a hot mud pool and a series of hotspring pools. 
   
You start off by slopping warm volcanic mud all over your body and face (no, not naked this time!), and let it air dry while you get a tour of the property and take in the spectacular views. Once dried you dip into the warm mud bottomed earthen pool and begin the first phase of rinsing off. It felt so good! Then you enter another natural hotspring pool to rinse off in the cleaner water before entering the last covered hotspring fed pool for a warm relaxing soak taking in the mountain and garden scene. Can't think of a better way to spend a rainy day. I definitely dozed off a bit on the cab ride home. 
 
 
 Vinaka vaka levu, my dear Fiji! Many thanks. I'm sure to be back again someday, hopefully in better health, for scuba and more Island adventures. You've exceeded even my wildest dreams of lush garden beachy paradise. If anyone reading this is thinking they might like to visit, buy a ticket and go! You can figure the rest out upon arrival.
    
 
 

        
  
 

Thursday, December 22, 2016

Immunity Idol

My last night on Nacula Island the activities board posted something called "Suvivor Fiji"... loving the show, and knowing the current season happened to be filmed in Fiji, I asked about it, wondering if they were going to stream the show. To my dismay (and delight) they were not, but rather, they were hosting a game like Suvivor with shell tossing, trivia, and puzzles. One of the waitresses told me there was an immunity Idol somewhere too! I wondered if I should start scouring the nooks and crannies along the beach, but was informed that one of the staff had it, and all I had to do was ask around. Needless to say, I found the immunity Idol!   
I was told it could earn my team ten extra points... My team was hopeless, and when they finally asked for the person with the Idol to come forward I thought it would do us no good at this point. But the whole ten point thing was a bunch of bologna. I went up redeem the Idol and was faced with a special reward task! I got to choose from three folded wine list menues from the bar, each with a note inside indicating a prize. I was allowed to open one at a time, and could either accept it or reject it and open another one, but could not go back to any I rejected. I rejected a free sarong from the gift shop, then opened the second menu and accepted a free bottle of wine! The last prize I didn't open was a one hour massage, which I had no time for before I had to leave, so it worked out. Naturally I picked the priciest bottle. I offered to share it with my team, but they insisted I keep it. I saved it and enjoyed it after evacuating the island the next day back at my hostel in Nadi... made the rainy day a bit more... rosè (haha!)

"Senga na Lenga" (sega na leqa)

Nacula Island and the Blue Lagoon Resort is just about the last stop accessible by the Yasawa Flyer, located in the northers portion of the chain. Everything here is a bit larger than what I experienced on Waya. A long white sand beach lined with cushioned wooden lounge chairs beneath the palms offered views of the bright blue clear water, colorful sunsets, and floating pontoon accessible by a short swim out in the ocean- good for a few flips and dives off and into the warm water. 

 
The food here is a treat for the eyes and palate, offering a buffet lunch with eggs and omlets made to order, crepes, exotic fruits and juices... you name it! Most resorts on the islands have a compulsory meal plan, so might as well take advantage of it, since I'm paying either way.  The lunch menu includes a variety of items including curried chicken with saffron rice, fish cakes, and my favorite was the large green salad loaded with papaya, pineapple, watermenoln, coconut shavings, seeds, pumpkin, and fresh fish. Dinner is always a 4 course affair, with  appetizer, entree, main, and dessert options. I feel so spoiled!
 


 

 

The reef here is my playground! Thousands of fish, some with up to 7 colors. I made friends with Angela, and Italian living in Belgium, who works for the UN as a lawyer of sorts involved in fish management. She gave me a few lessons on some things to look for and notice along the reef, which gave me a new lens and context to all that I was seeing. In the afternoon of my second day I ventured far out following the reef's edge finding the cuddlefish I had heard about. About 6-7 inches long with squid like arms and a ruffling skirt, the pair I spotted started out dark brown in color and changed light iridescent while I dove down deep to follow them a bit. The farther out I went, the better the sights. The water was a little choppy, and it was getting later in the day, so I decided to just go a bit further before making my way back to shore, when I suddenly came upon a reef shark! He was very curious about me, and followed me for a while, perhaps expecting to be fed, as snorkeling with reef sharks is a popular excursion, and they often need to be lured into an area by treats. At the time I did not know this, and definitely freaked out a bit. My rational mind told me, "He's harmless. You wanted to go snorkeling with the sharks. Enjoy this." The primitive, emotional part of my brain shouted, "Get the hell out of here!" It was a little nerve racking when he followed me around, but I was able to enjoy the experience... ok, I might have gotten a leg cramp from how fast I was kicking myself out of the area, haha. After calming down I saw a sea turtle on my way back- the Yoda of the sea- and felt safe again. 

 
The following day included a visit to Sara-I-Lau, the limestone caves, by way of a thrilling motor boat ride. The weather had turned, with threats of a cyclone coming in, and the seas were rough. The caves were a really special experience. 
 Hosting a mix of fresh and salt water, we saw eel and red snapper in the clear water. They say if you haven't visited the caves, you haven't really been to the Yasawas.  From the shore you climb a few steps up the hillside, then down into the first cave, lit up by sunlight streaming in through openings up top.
 
 From there, you can enter a second dark cave by way of an underwater tunnel, using a diving light to navigate. Our guide Petè found me to be somewhat brave and a strong swimmer, so he  had me go first to shine the light for everyone else as he guided them through the tunnel. The beauty of this was being the only one in the dark second cave on the way in, and the way out. I definitely let out a big howl while alone in the cave that echoed for what felt like minutes.
 

 The storm began to come in with full force, and I had to make the difficult decision to skip my last island to ensure I'd make it back to Nadi to catch my flight to New Zealand... smart choice, because all inter-island transportation was cancelled the day I was scheduled to come back for my flight... Seng na lenga- no worries!

The boat ride back to Nadi was packed, and I took the advice of some older wine loving ladies, and upgraded to the "Captains Lounge" for about $20 US. Free wine and beer and snacks, cushy couch seats, and roomy. Good thing, because the 4 1/2 hour ride ended up being a stormy 7 hour affair. When I left the the lounge to use the loo, it was horrific- people all wet, huddled together, sitting in isleways, green faced and puking everywhere. Feeling great and a little wine drunk, I felt like a jerk, and tried not to smile and draw attention to my purple teeth and dry clothes as I maneuvered my way through the miserable masses while the boat tossed back and forth. 
 


Sunday, December 18, 2016

Yawa Island

Two and a half hours on the Yasawa Flyer, a big yellow jet boat, gets you past the Mamanuca Island group and out to the mid section of the Yasawa Islands to Yawa Island and the Octopus Resort, also known as pure paradise. Tucked into the hillside, and guarded somewhat from the wind, the resort boasts a beautiful white sand beach strewn with a variety of corals, lined with palms, and hosting a health reef teaming with a vibrant variety of tropical fish and anemone. The resort is quite classy with a laid back, friendly vibe. The bures are beautifully constructed with great attention to detail, using locally sourced materials including bamboo and intricate palm weaving. You're best off barefoot here, as the main dining area has a sand floor. All the walk ways are lined with hibiscus and frangipani, sweetening the hot humid air. 
 
 
  

The day I arrived happened to be the annual staff Christmas party- hard to wrap my sweaty head around the the fact that it's the holiday season. All the children came in from the local village for a special lunch and games. Feeling like death, and with half a voice, I elected to take a nap in hopes of salvaging the rest of the day- a good decision. (Maybe I can count this as a sick day, rather than vacation day from work?!)

In the late afternoon, all the village elders came and gathered for a Yakona ceremony, playing traditional songs on guitar and ukulele, singing in the kinds of rough throated harmonies only weathered old dudes can make. It was really special. I joined in for a bit, making new friends. 
   After a fancy BBQ dinner there was a band from Suva playing island beats all night long, with all the staff and local villagers dancing, laughing and drinking lots of kava. It was wild! 

Up bright and early for church at the village- a short one mile hike up and over the hillside led by Tai Voli "grandpa". The elders here are limber and well built with open hips from sitting cross legged during evening Yakona ceremonies and strong legs from traversing the landscape. 
   Church service was filled with a passionate sermon in Fijian, choir singing, and little boys sitting in front of me being total rascals- non stop flicking each others ears, slapping behind the head and other shenanigans. Classic!  The collection basket went around, and we all gave generously. 

Women here are required to cover shoulders and knees, and most locals were in their Sunday best- light cotton dresses for the ladies, and colorful dress shirts and formal skirts for the men. All the villagers go barefoot, or maybe flip flops on occasion. The men's feet especially, develop large, wide toed, and callused. The generator was out, so there were no fans and the church felt truly like a sauna. I nearly had to excuse myself for fear of passing out. I was able to fan myself with a folded up crossword puzzle I'd stashed in my purse, but was jealous of the large woven hand fans the women had. I inquired about these later, and my new local pal, Lacey, brought me a couple the next day.

The village is quite simple, with the only real constructed buildings being the church and the school house. The family homes are not much more than shacks with separate woodfire makeshift stoves.  
    
Met a friendly little pig pal on my hike back to the village...

 
In stark contrast to church at the village, I spent the rest of the day treating myself to a traditional Fijian head massage in an effort to ease my congestion and heal... then a pedicure, and another full body massage- all in a lovely facility and accompanied by plates of fresh pineapple, watermelon, and papaya. The price was right, the weather had turned sour, and I needed some healing touch. 
 

Thursday, December 15, 2016

Lo-fi Wifi

Delays in publishing posts. Wifi in Fiji is about as weak as the coffee. Of course the photos make it more difficult... I'm sure the pending cyclone doesn't help matters either, as the hostel I retreated to is at capacity, with many travelers on their devices trying to rearrange plans.

Friday, December 9, 2016

Bula Fiji

Arrived safely in Nadi, Fiji with all my baggage. The air here is hot and humid, and it's a welcomed change to the freezing rain I left behind. Everyone here greets each other with a warm smile and "Bula!" Made pals with fellow travelers on the shuttle from the airport to Bamboo Backpackers resort, all commiserating in not having slept much on our flights and also fueled by the excitement of another stamp on the passport and the anticipation of adventures to come. After some breakfast and a celebratory mini bottle of champagne, my room was ready, and I was glad to lay down after time traveling over the international dateline. 

 

The public busses are cheap and easy, with many of them open air (no windows), providing a breezy reprieve from the heat- it does not cool down here, not even at night. Navigated my way into town with a new pal, Nadia- friendships amongst backpackers are fast and fleeting, always sharing where you've been, how long you're here, and where to next. We hit up the growers market, where I enjoyed a spiral cut pineapple for a snack while perusing all the unfamiliar fruits and roots.
 Took part in a Yakona (Kava) ceremony the first night in hopes of sleeping off this nasty cold I caught on my way here. Sat in a circle with some locals playing some songs on guitar and make shift percussion instruments and telling stories. The yakona is steeped for a while served in a little coconut shell cup, that gets passed around the circle until someone takes it with a single hand clap and shout of "Bula!" Then passes it back around to be refilled. The warm drink is bitter and some don't prefer it. (I love it) I had a few cups full, making my whole mouth numb and relaxing me into "fiji time".

Day 2 found me with no voice and feeling worse, not having slept much in the heat. But I ventured out to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, boasting a vast array of beautiful orchids and varieties of flowers you can only dream of.
    

   
After lunch at the hostel, I bussed back into town for some needed items before heading out to the Yasawa Islands, where all you have access to is what you brought along. Picked up some Sudafed, a new phone charger and visited the Hindu temple.
 
The bus back took a shortcut off road and on to the beach! 
Had a beautiful dinner of mahi mahi with some local root vegetables, and greens cooked in a coconut broth. So kind! So far the food does not disappoint, and I'm told the island fare is even better. Everything organic and grown or harvested from the island and surrounding seas. Cooled down on the beach with a cold Fiji Gold beer and watched a vibrant sunset with dramatic clouds and lightning striking hard and fast behind me inland.

Headed to Waya island now to relax at the Octopus Resort for 2 nights to start off my week of island hopping. Looking forward to the free morning yoga, and planning to book a massage for tomorrow... because vacation!

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Hammy Treats and Hostel Suites?

To travel from Mendoza to Buenos Aires, you either fly or take an overnight bus. Meika and I elected to endure the 14 hours bus ride, and very wisely chose to purchase executivo (first class) tickets. The cost was several pesos more than the turista class, but when we converted it to dollars, the difference wasn't more than a few bucks. This ended up being one of the highlights of the trip. Our seats were on the top level of a double decker bus, and I was thrilled to discover they reclined to a nearly flat position with a foot rest. Our journey began with a game of BINGO! Our attendant, Andres- who we became fast friends with, called numbers over the microphone as we eagerly punched out our numbers. Not wanting to be the stupid American calling out a false "bingo", I was sure to double check my numbers with Meika after each one was called out. I would like to say that we won, but the lucky card belonged to the lady in front us, who received a bottle of wine. Shortly after the game, our movie and dinner service began. We dined on hammy treats and alfahores (a cookie layered with dulce de leche and covered in chocolate... they are everywhere) and accompanied by packets of mayo and salt. Wine was complementary and so we made the best of our meal while we watched Leathal Weapon... to our surprise and delight a second course of turkey, potato fritters, and overcooked veggies came, as well as refills on the vino. We giggled and munched our dinners while strapped up in our Andesmar issued dining bibs. By now your thinking, it cant get much better, but it does. With the start of our second feature film, Twilight (these were all in English with Spanish subtitles... Meika was brave and snuck over to the electronics area while Andres was away to turn up the volume for us) we were served champagne- I let Andres know this was Meika's favorite, and he kept it coming! With a swollen full moon out the window, and bellies full of beverages we snoozed and cruised all the way to Buenos Aires. We bid our new friend, Andres, farewell and tipped him for his great service.

Upon arriving at the Florida Suites Hostel downtown, we realized this was NOT what we were looking for. We immediately nicknamed it 'the dorms' because of its sterility, lack of character, haunting smell, and abundance of drunk high school graduates. Everything was clean and nice, but it was lacking the charm we were looking for. There was no common kitchen area, but in its place was a cafeteria type set up on the bottom floor. We made the best of it, and decided to change accommodations after our upcoming trip to Uruguay.

Buenos Aires is definitely a big city, and we were right in the heart of the hustle and bustle. Street vendors, performers, McDonalds, tourists cars and cabs were everywhere. We set off to soak up some serenity at the Botanical and Japanese gardens while the winter sun still hung in the sky. Just down the street from there, we visited MELBA, the modern art museum. It housed some intriguing pieces, including a self portrait by Frida Kahlo, and a portrait by Diego Rivera, among other things. However, most of it was a little arts and crafts for my taste. The following day we took a train to Tigre, a popular get away about 35 km north of BA. There was plenty of shopping and views of the delta, which has a rich latte color due to its high content of iron from the jungle streams of South America that feed into it. It was an all day trip, and we spent as little time as possible in 'the dorms', aside from sleeping, using the Internet, and having few beverages in the basement bar.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

The Beef on Argentina: Wine and Swine in Mendoza

Mendoza was the perfect introduction to Argentina. It is a smaller desert city tucked in next to the foothills of the Andes. Meika met me at the airport and we taxied back to her house that she shares with her dad, Tom, and his hilarious and adorable dog, Cachao. It is a funky and spacious two story house. The ground floor includes a kitchen, living room, a garage used to house bikes and firewood, a dining space attached to a larger room with a fireplace used for band practice and parties, a bedroom, and an oudoor patio. The second floor includes Meikaś bedroom and a spare bedroom which I stayed in, both with little balconies overlooking the street. There is also a laundryroom, and a rooftop patio used for drying clothes, asados, stargazing and wine drinking. It connects to the yard via a sprial staircase.

Winter here is mild, and I wish I had brought my sandals. The air is warm and very dry. Meika is a great host and I definitely made the most of my time in Mendoza. Due to La Gripe A (the swine flu) overtaking this country some music shows were cancelled, and the dance clubs all closed. People have their faces covered in scarves or masks on the streets and on public transportation. From what I understand, Argentina is the most affected country. Brasil and other neighboring countries are advising their citizens not to travel here. Unfortunately, Cachao got into my stash of Host Defense and fish oil, but so far so good. Being a school teacher, I think my immune system is pretty strong.

Meika and I treated ourselves to a fancy steak dinner. Thank God we shared because when the dish arrived it was a butterfly cut with two slabs of beef each the size of Andrea the Giantś palm , and down the center rested a kabob with more beef, oinions and tomatoes. It was DELICIOUS! After dinner we met up with Alexis (who I also know from Eugene, and happens to also be living here) at a rooftop loft art party. Everyone is very friendly here, and they really seem to take their time to know and talk with you, not just get your name like in the states. Of course there was lots of wine and Fernet, a local bitter liquer usually mixed with Coke. I was given my Argentinian name\ nickname, "Cielito", which means little cloud. Later we walked to a Chino con Africa, a bar, where we had to wait for police to leave the area before we could enter... lots of restrictions due to La Gripe A, once inside there was great music, more friends, and every so often they cleared the dancefloor because of Gripe.

Bikes and Wine filled another day. We rented bikes out in Maipù and rode to a few Bodegas to sip on some local Malbec.... mmm! Meika and I laughed a lot, and even popped some sweet wheelies on our crusers. Another day I borrowed Tomś bike and Meika led me on a ride up to Challao where we got views of the city and the foothills. I got a flat back tire on the way up, and I am proud to say that I successfully fixed my first flat (all that watching other people do it for me really paid off!). I spent some time walking around the parks and plazas, and overall really enjoyed getting more of a local experience in Mendoza. Tom and Meika took me to a friends birthday party one evening, catered with empanandas, wine, and dulcé de leche treats. We also celebrated Maria Inezś birthday at the house with some dinner and friends. I have had lots of opportunities to practice my Spanish, which I am relearning in each country I visit- pronounciation and vocabulary seem to change from region to region.

The most beautiful day by far was a day trip with Alexis and Meika to Cacheuta, where we spent a warm sunny day soaking in the thermal pools. Out in the middle of nowhere, tucked in a high, dry desert cliffside landscape, we enjoyed the natural waters, landscape, and a few cervesas. It was a Monday, and not crowded at all. I love vacation. I love that I get nealry 4 AR pesos to the US dollar.

More to come on overnight bus rides and Buenos Aires.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Valencia


The land where historic meets modern. From old blue tiled towers, to the new Arts and Sciences complex, Valencia is great to get lost in... i would know! Slept off Granada and the train ride my first night here, then got up early and hit the beach with some girls in my room. The beach was busy, but not too bad, and the water was perfect- could have been a little cooler. The salty water was fun for floating around, and cooling off. Though, it is pretty humid here, and you never seem to get dry.

Today I walked along the old river park for a frew miles before going to the Arts and Sciences complex. About 60 years ago, the river flooded the city in a meter of water, so they diverted the river and turned the space into a long stretch of parkland that borders the city. Lots of trees, shade, futbol fields, fountains, vesivals, and a concert venue.

Checked out the Arts and Science place, and got a ticket to the science exhibit. Very interactive, and lots of fun! Learned that i have a ¨greek¨ foot (only 22 percent of people have it), and learned all about magnets, brains, climate change, technology, boats, and the science behind comic books. Had a lot of fun being silly with the super heroes. some of it was definitely geared toward kids, but there were almost all adults there, and i had a lot of fun touring it with a friend from the hostel.

Tomorrow will be a bit more sight seeing, and then it is off to Barcelona... la ciudad de mi corazon... for a bit more exploring before i head back to the states. (Flickr wont upload, so that will have to wait)

Beware of the Gypsies

Granada was full of heat, late nights, and adventure. The hostel was fun, but too many rules. A kitch that closes at 10? what the heck! Anyway, enjoyed meeting new people, and managed to find the European equivalent of the Brian, Nels, and Jay trio. Filip and Mathias from Antwerp, and Alex from France. We had a lot of fun roaming the streets of Granada and telling stories. (Brian, I am afriad the Belgium boys put your dance moveS to shame... if thats possible) Of course, I made a day of visiting the Alhambra, and took lots of pictures. Other than that, i spent a lot of time cruisin the calles, and trying to avoid the gypsies. One of them spit at me outside the Alhabra... i hope i am not cursed! Shopped around in the Morroccan style shoppes all over the cities, and enjoyed tea and apple flavoured shish? at a tea house. Very relaxing and unamerican. Spent my last night there in a hot spring under the full moon. Wasnt as great as some in OR, but still a welcomed hot soak. It is in the middle of nowhere, andsurrounded by olive trees. I guess the story is that a farmer was digging around looking for cold water to irrigate the land, and found a hot spring. The hot water was piped a short distance to a dug out dirt pool where we endured the gusty, grainy wind, and soothed soar walking legs in the thermal bath. Afterwards I took a well needed shower and cruised the streets of Granada late night with the boys. Great conversation, and a lot of fun. Ended up having an hour and a half ¨rest¨then got up for my 8 hour, non-airconditioned, train to Valencia... it was worth it, because this hostel is spacious and sweet.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Pirate Pants and Other Rants

Ok, so there are a few things that have stood out to me here. First off are ¨pirate pants¨ get ready America... they are making their way across the sea, and soon I suspect that they will be stocked in every color at Old Navy. Cant find a good picture, but i will try to sneak one this week. Basically they are a throw back to MC Hammer. The crotch of the pants can be anywhere from form fitting, to all the way down to the claves, then they puff out at the bottom and tie tight to the leg creating a lare billowing sillohette (i cant spell check , nor do i care anymore). Kind Alladinesque. They are everywhere. If i come across a cheap pair on the street i just might have to get some. You can get away with anything in Eugene!

The next rant goes to the food and drink sector... specifically cured ham and coffee (or lack of!) I am so sick of seeing rows of hanging pig legs in store fronts, and i dont ever want to eat ham with cheese and bread again! huuuggg! As i think about it, the taste haunts me, and i have phantom cured ham flavors tormenting my mouth. Coffee is rediculous here (though David Greene, you might just love it). There is no brewed coffee -unless you are the tool who comes to Spain and goes to Starbucks! All you can get is espresso with milk. Its not aweful (and perhaps I have been spoiled by morning trips to Wandering Goat), but is not very good either. I even sought out a special coffee place, supposedly specializing in coffees. I ordered a coffee, and saw the lady going for the espresso presser as she asked ¨¿con leche?¨... why did i get my hopes up?

I wont get into the whole beer situation. I had low expectations, since you can´t really top the microbrew haven that is America´s North West. I have found Alhambra negra to be decent out of the tap... and pretty much anything cold in the hot weather is great. I plan on perfecting some Sangría for BBQs and river floats. Tinto de Verano is similar and quite refreshing as well.

Looking forward to a delicious, and rediculously vegan meal in Eugene, and a tall cup of Wandering Goat Coffee with just enough half and half to make it that perfect coffee color. Then once I am fed and revvvved up, it will be straight on my bike, and off to Sam Bond´s for a strong dark beer in a mason jar. Any takers!?

Rabo de Toro



The rest of my stay in Sevilla was delightful. Kinda like a vacation within a vacation, spending the mornings sightseeing, and the HOT 100+ afternoons in the rooftop pool with a frosty Alhambra Negra beer in hand. Of course I went to another flamenco show- but this one was a very local scene, and we may have been the only tourists... well worth the walk across the river. It was improv´ dancing by family members of the owner and random couples in the audience. Got some good video to share later.




Ronda was a breezey and welcomed break from the heat and congestion of the bigger cities. It is small enough to walk around in about 2 hours, but absolutely stunning. It is surrounded on three sides by a deep gorge, which precedes the mountainscape of the Serranía de Ronda. There is no lack of walking trails along the gorge either. Enjoyed 1Euro tapas and beer the night i arrived, then set out for the Cuevas de las Piletas. Took the train, and arrived in Benaoján at about 7:45 am. and went into a little cafe near the station for coffee and directions to the caves. This was the first time I have gotten that ¨get the hell outta here¨feeling. There were about 7 men drinking straight liquor ... lots of it... before heading to their jobs (manual labor type stuff judging from shoes and clothes). They couldnt believe i was going to walk. ¨sola?¨ one said, asking if i was alone. i just said hm? like i didnt understand. Then another one said he would take me... i was a half second from jupming on the next train... anywhere, when in walked the sweet, safe policeman! he ended up giving me a ride all the way, so i just had to kill about an hour or so before the caves opened. I practiced using the self timer on my camera, and enjoyed the cool mountain morning. As it turns out, i ended up talking politics in spanish with the old man who owns the caves and gives the tour... he loved me, and after about three hours, we were best friends, and there were enough people there to go on the tour. The cuevas were awesome! Lots of paintings inside, some as old as 30,000 years old! Human and animal bones, old torch posts, fireplaces, paintings of a giant fish, calendars, mountains, bulls, horses, goats, shaymen, and more. One of the formations in the cave made hollowed out collumns that you could hit with your palm to make different tones... very cool! We had a gas lam for every five people, but i think everyone was jealous of my headlamp. Caught a ride halfway down the mountain with a Dutch couple, then ran hard the rest of the way so i would catch the next train. That night i treated myself to the local specialty of Rabo de Toro (aka Bull´s Tail)... i know, i know... but i would have been curious about it the rest of the trip if i didnt have it. Its basically just like stew beef on vertebrae looking bones. It was really salty, and so greasy that my lips would stick together! At least i tried it- lord know they kill enough bulls with all the bull fights down there. I had some bocadillas later on (mini sandwiches).
I did end up touring the bull ring. It was interesting, but the more I learn about it, the less i want to support any of it. Basically, you stick little spears into the bull until it is weak and delirious, then they stick a sword into the back of its neck.. hopefully killing it the first time. Ususally the bull has to suffer through two swipes of the sword before stammering off to die. !Olay!

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

WWOOFing Wimp


Feels like it has been forever since I have been on the internet, or been able to speak a sentance in English, and have someone understand. I find myself speking in broken English and talking slowly even to Americans, just because that is all I have heard in English or understood in Spanish for the past 4 or 5 days. I am in Sevilla now, it was a last minute decision, but a very good one. I lasted 3-4 days at La Cascada. My expectation was that there would be other WWOOFers there, or people vacationing there. Oh No! it was small, hot, and beautiful. However, other than Balta, who owns the place and works and lives very naked, there were other people there for one day: Carolína, who was 30 something, spoke a a few phrases in spanish, and was paying to stay and relax there. Sebatián, who was maybe in his 40s, probably 80 lbs, a construction worker, and was eating only fruit (yes, Dad, this would make him a ¨fruitarian¨). And one other guy whose name I could never pronounce, and so i cant remember (though i am tempted to make one up for the sake of the story), he was a bigger fella- i am talking about his gut- and was always complaining that he was too old for this work, and he dragged a bit. The two men, Blata, and I worked together the first day planting and watering tomatoes, and builing a stone and earthen wall in the river to create a large swimming and bathing area. This was HARD labor, and I was trying my damnedest to keep up, and never complain. The men worked in the buff (except Sebastián aka skeletor, though he worked like a horse). I lasted about 1 hour nakes, then decided i would prefer my bathing suit... amongst other reasons, there would have been too much sun lotion involved. All the men commented on how white I was, and tried to have me work in the shade when possible. The next day they all left, and it was just me and Balta. Once in a while I would see his partner, Marta, but she worked in the city, and ¨liked her space¨. Over all I would work from about 9:30 to 10 at night with a 2 hour siesta during the afternoon heat. I hauled large stones from up a hill to the river, carried bucket after bucket of earth down the trail to the river wall, shoveled rocks and dirt out of the pool, hoed the land, planted tomatoes, watered plants 2 watering cans at a time, collecting water from the river each time, soaked and peeled cacao and almonds, pick oranges, and help prep and clean up meals. After a few days I`d had enough, and had to get the hell out of there. Nesecito decansar! I needed to rest, and that was enough nakedness and manual work for me. I´ll admit it... I am a WWOOFing wimp- I couldnt hang. So I scheduled a trip to Sevilla at the last minute.

I have to say that the experience of eating all raw, fresh, organic foods was invigorating! One of the best things I got to do was pick an almond fruit? off the tree crack it open between two rocks, and eat the moist nut right there where it grew. Eating all raw, local, organic foods left me feeling a vibrance and wellness I had not known before. I spent a lot of time reading Daivd Wolf´s book, The Sunfood Diet System. The raw food lifestyle makes a lot of sense- you hardly create any waste, and because you don`t cook any food you aren`t loosing any of the water, or wasting energy resources (coal or wood... which contributes to the deforestation in non 1st world countries), and I found that I didn`t need to eat the quantity of food i would normally eat. I could go on and on, but you all can do your own research. Definitely investing in a juicer when i return, and purchasing David Wolf´s book at Red Barn.

I am now in Sevilla, at a sweet hostel- thank you Let´s Go- for only 20€ a night. It has a swanky feel, very clean, dorm style rooms, international travelers, and a pool on the roof! Last night I got here, hopped in the awesome shower, and headed out with a large for group for the BEST tapas, and a flamenco show. I think I love flamenco! I want to see more, and I wish I could embrace the passion these performers have, and dance and sing and play drums and guitar that way.. WOW! I will put up some pictures soon... I saw the computer open, so I grabbed it. Now I am off to the included buffet breakfast.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Barcelona a Madrid






I fell in love with Barcelona! I will definitley schedule a few days there before heading home. I went out for tapas and flamenco with some friends from the Hostal :Marrianne, Jenn, and Magda from Sweden, Marco from Finland, and Rohini who has a radio show in Bombay. They served us pitcher after pitcher of Sangria, which may explain some of the singing and swaying that is going on in some of the pictures later that night. The flamenco show was super sultry and passionate. The singers voice was phenominal, and the one female dancer commanded the stage. Very strong and sexy!


The next day I ventured up to the Montjuïc area, where I toured the Fundació Miró and the NMAC (Nacional Museu de Art de Catalunya). I got lots of postcards of Miró art work for the mini art unit I do with my students on Joan Miró, then walked through some botanical gardens on my way to the MNAC where I took an obnoxious amount of pictures (which I posted on flickr). For some reason I really liked asll the little demons in the Gothic art- very reminiscent of Where the Wild Things Are- so i took a lot of photos of things like that and other details that caught my eye. (Brian, you would have loved some of the tile works and mosaics there.) The picture of the tantdum bicycle was my favorite.


Over all, Barcelona was clean, easy to navigate, hot, and uncongested. The longer I was there, the more I wanted to see and do. I dont think I had to wait in a line once, and while i was at the NMAC, I was often the only person in the room.
I took the train through the Pyrennes and countryside to Madrid.The train was smooth, fast, and airconditioned. For train travel, i suggest buying your Euro rail pass in the states, and making your reservactions once you get here... its about half the money, but you have to wait in line for a while. Since i am traveling alone, I have had no problems getting reservations for trains or Hostles.
Got to Plaza De Ort last night, which is more of a hotel. I have a cute room with remote controlled air conditioning, and a full bathroom to myslef. Last night I took the advice of my Let´s Go travel book (which hasnt failed me yet!) and went to a place called Cuevas de Sésamo. I walked down into this little tavern, where piano music and smoke filled the air. I entered during the pink panther song, ordered some olives and a small pitcher of sangría. As I was finishing off the pitcher, a girl came up to me and, in spanish, invited my to sit with her and her friend. Turns out they are both Americans, both named Sarah, and they went to Harvard together, and now are getting PhDs in spanish . One of them worked for Lets Go, and the other is now teaching a class through NYU at the university here in Madrid. We drank more Sangría, and enjoyed the music. We have plans to meet up for a rooftop sunset dinner at Casa Granada.


Tomorrow i will go to Malaga, take the bus to Ojen, then follow the yellow painted rocks up the trail to La Cascada where I will be WWOOFing on the Higienist and Raw food retreat.