Hammy Treats and Hostel Suites?

To travel from Mendoza to Buenos Aires, you either fly or take an overnight bus. Meika and I elected to endure the 14 hours bus ride, and very wisely chose to purchase executivo (first class) tickets. The cost was several pesos more than the turista class, but when we converted it to dollars, the difference wasn't more than a few bucks. This ended up being one of the highlights of the trip. Our seats were on the top level of a double decker bus, and I was thrilled to discover they reclined to a nearly flat position with a foot rest. Our journey began with a game of BINGO! Our attendant, Andres- who we became fast friends with, called numbers over the microphone as we eagerly punched out our numbers. Not wanting to be the stupid American calling out a false "bingo", I was sure to double check my numbers with Meika after each one was called out. I would like to say that we won, but the lucky card belonged to the lady in front us, who received a bottle of wine. Shortly after the game, our movie and dinner service began. We dined on hammy treats and alfahores (a cookie layered with dulce de leche and covered in chocolate... they are everywhere) and accompanied by packets of mayo and salt. Wine was complementary and so we made the best of our meal while we watched Leathal Weapon... to our surprise and delight a second course of turkey, potato fritters, and overcooked veggies came, as well as refills on the vino. We giggled and munched our dinners while strapped up in our Andesmar issued dining bibs. By now your thinking, it cant get much better, but it does. With the start of our second feature film, Twilight (these were all in English with Spanish subtitles... Meika was brave and snuck over to the electronics area while Andres was away to turn up the volume for us) we were served champagne- I let Andres know this was Meika's favorite, and he kept it coming! With a swollen full moon out the window, and bellies full of beverages we snoozed and cruised all the way to Buenos Aires. We bid our new friend, Andres, farewell and tipped him for his great service.

Upon arriving at the Florida Suites Hostel downtown, we realized this was NOT what we were looking for. We immediately nicknamed it 'the dorms' because of its sterility, lack of character, haunting smell, and abundance of drunk high school graduates. Everything was clean and nice, but it was lacking the charm we were looking for. There was no common kitchen area, but in its place was a cafeteria type set up on the bottom floor. We made the best of it, and decided to change accommodations after our upcoming trip to Uruguay.

Buenos Aires is definitely a big city, and we were right in the heart of the hustle and bustle. Street vendors, performers, McDonalds, tourists cars and cabs were everywhere. We set off to soak up some serenity at the Botanical and Japanese gardens while the winter sun still hung in the sky. Just down the street from there, we visited MELBA, the modern art museum. It housed some intriguing pieces, including a self portrait by Frida Kahlo, and a portrait by Diego Rivera, among other things. However, most of it was a little arts and crafts for my taste. The following day we took a train to Tigre, a popular get away about 35 km north of BA. There was plenty of shopping and views of the delta, which has a rich latte color due to its high content of iron from the jungle streams of South America that feed into it. It was an all day trip, and we spent as little time as possible in 'the dorms', aside from sleeping, using the Internet, and having few beverages in the basement bar.

The Beef on Argentina: Wine and Swine in Mendoza

Mendoza was the perfect introduction to Argentina. It is a smaller desert city tucked in next to the foothills of the Andes. Meika met me at the airport and we taxied back to her house that she shares with her dad, Tom, and his hilarious and adorable dog, Cachao. It is a funky and spacious two story house. The ground floor includes a kitchen, living room, a garage used to house bikes and firewood, a dining space attached to a larger room with a fireplace used for band practice and parties, a bedroom, and an oudoor patio. The second floor includes Meikaś bedroom and a spare bedroom which I stayed in, both with little balconies overlooking the street. There is also a laundryroom, and a rooftop patio used for drying clothes, asados, stargazing and wine drinking. It connects to the yard via a sprial staircase.

Winter here is mild, and I wish I had brought my sandals. The air is warm and very dry. Meika is a great host and I definitely made the most of my time in Mendoza. Due to La Gripe A (the swine flu) overtaking this country some music shows were cancelled, and the dance clubs all closed. People have their faces covered in scarves or masks on the streets and on public transportation. From what I understand, Argentina is the most affected country. Brasil and other neighboring countries are advising their citizens not to travel here. Unfortunately, Cachao got into my stash of Host Defense and fish oil, but so far so good. Being a school teacher, I think my immune system is pretty strong.

Meika and I treated ourselves to a fancy steak dinner. Thank God we shared because when the dish arrived it was a butterfly cut with two slabs of beef each the size of Andrea the Giantś palm , and down the center rested a kabob with more beef, oinions and tomatoes. It was DELICIOUS! After dinner we met up with Alexis (who I also know from Eugene, and happens to also be living here) at a rooftop loft art party. Everyone is very friendly here, and they really seem to take their time to know and talk with you, not just get your name like in the states. Of course there was lots of wine and Fernet, a local bitter liquer usually mixed with Coke. I was given my Argentinian name\ nickname, "Cielito", which means little cloud. Later we walked to a Chino con Africa, a bar, where we had to wait for police to leave the area before we could enter... lots of restrictions due to La Gripe A, once inside there was great music, more friends, and every so often they cleared the dancefloor because of Gripe.

Bikes and Wine filled another day. We rented bikes out in Maipù and rode to a few Bodegas to sip on some local Malbec.... mmm! Meika and I laughed a lot, and even popped some sweet wheelies on our crusers. Another day I borrowed Tomś bike and Meika led me on a ride up to Challao where we got views of the city and the foothills. I got a flat back tire on the way up, and I am proud to say that I successfully fixed my first flat (all that watching other people do it for me really paid off!). I spent some time walking around the parks and plazas, and overall really enjoyed getting more of a local experience in Mendoza. Tom and Meika took me to a friends birthday party one evening, catered with empanandas, wine, and dulcé de leche treats. We also celebrated Maria Inezś birthday at the house with some dinner and friends. I have had lots of opportunities to practice my Spanish, which I am relearning in each country I visit- pronounciation and vocabulary seem to change from region to region.

The most beautiful day by far was a day trip with Alexis and Meika to Cacheuta, where we spent a warm sunny day soaking in the thermal pools. Out in the middle of nowhere, tucked in a high, dry desert cliffside landscape, we enjoyed the natural waters, landscape, and a few cervesas. It was a Monday, and not crowded at all. I love vacation. I love that I get nealry 4 AR pesos to the US dollar.

More to come on overnight bus rides and Buenos Aires.

Valencia

The land where historic meets modern. From old blue tiled towers, to the new Arts and Sciences complex, Valencia is great to get lost in... i would know! Slept off Granada and the train ride my first night here, then got up early and hit the beach with some girls in my room. The beach was busy, but not too bad, and the water was perfect- could have been a little cooler. The salty water was fun for floating around, and cooling off. Though, it is pretty humid here, and you never seem to get dry.

Today I walked along the old river park for a frew miles before going to the Arts and Sciences complex. About 60 years ago, the river flooded the city in a meter of water, so they diverted the river and turned the space into a long stretch of parkland that borders the city. Lots of trees, shade, futbol fields, fountains, vesivals, and a concert venue.

Checked out the Arts and Science place, and got a ticket to the science exhibit. Very interactive, and lots of fun! Learned that i have a ¨greek¨ foot (only 22 percent of people have it), and learned all about magnets, brains, climate change, technology, boats, and the science behind comic books. Had a lot of fun being silly with the super heroes. some of it was definitely geared toward kids, but there were almost all adults there, and i had a lot of fun touring it with a friend from the hostel.

Tomorrow will be a bit more sight seeing, and then it is off to Barcelona... la ciudad de mi corazon... for a bit more exploring before i head back to the states. (Flickr wont upload, so that will have to wait)

Beware of the Gypsies

Granada was full of heat, late nights, and adventure. The hostel was fun, but too many rules. A kitch that closes at 10? what the heck! Anyway, enjoyed meeting new people, and managed to find the European equivalent of the Brian, Nels, and Jay trio. Filip and Mathias from Antwerp, and Alex from France. We had a lot of fun roaming the streets of Granada and telling stories. (Brian, I am afriad the Belgium boys put your dance moveS to shame... if thats possible) Of course, I made a day of visiting the Alhambra, and took lots of pictures. Other than that, i spent a lot of time cruisin the calles, and trying to avoid the gypsies. One of them spit at me outside the Alhabra... i hope i am not cursed! Shopped around in the Morroccan style shoppes all over the cities, and enjoyed tea and apple flavoured shish? at a tea house. Very relaxing and unamerican. Spent my last night there in a hot spring under the full moon. Wasnt as great as some in OR, but still a welcomed hot soak. It is in the middle of nowhere, andsurrounded by olive trees. I guess the story is that a farmer was digging around looking for cold water to irrigate the land, and found a hot spring. The hot water was piped a short distance to a dug out dirt pool where we endured the gusty, grainy wind, and soothed soar walking legs in the thermal bath. Afterwards I took a well needed shower and cruised the streets of Granada late night with the boys. Great conversation, and a lot of fun. Ended up having an hour and a half ¨rest¨then got up for my 8 hour, non-airconditioned, train to Valencia... it was worth it, because this hostel is spacious and sweet.

Pirate Pants and Other Rants

Ok, so there are a few things that have stood out to me here. First off are ¨pirate pants¨ get ready America... they are making their way across the sea, and soon I suspect that they will be stocked in every color at Old Navy. Cant find a good picture, but i will try to sneak one this week. Basically they are a throw back to MC Hammer. The crotch of the pants can be anywhere from form fitting, to all the way down to the claves, then they puff out at the bottom and tie tight to the leg creating a lare billowing sillohette (i cant spell check , nor do i care anymore). Kind Alladinesque. They are everywhere. If i come across a cheap pair on the street i just might have to get some. You can get away with anything in Eugene!

The next rant goes to the food and drink sector... specifically cured ham and coffee (or lack of!) I am so sick of seeing rows of hanging pig legs in store fronts, and i dont ever want to eat ham with cheese and bread again! huuuggg! As i think about it, the taste haunts me, and i have phantom cured ham flavors tormenting my mouth. Coffee is rediculous here (though David Greene, you might just love it). There is no brewed coffee -unless you are the tool who comes to Spain and goes to Starbucks! All you can get is espresso with milk. Its not aweful (and perhaps I have been spoiled by morning trips to Wandering Goat), but is not very good either. I even sought out a special coffee place, supposedly specializing in coffees. I ordered a coffee, and saw the lady going for the espresso presser as she asked ¨¿con leche?¨... why did i get my hopes up?

I wont get into the whole beer situation. I had low expectations, since you can´t really top the microbrew haven that is America´s North West. I have found Alhambra negra to be decent out of the tap... and pretty much anything cold in the hot weather is great. I plan on perfecting some Sangría for BBQs and river floats. Tinto de Verano is similar and quite refreshing as well.

Looking forward to a delicious, and rediculously vegan meal in Eugene, and a tall cup of Wandering Goat Coffee with just enough half and half to make it that perfect coffee color. Then once I am fed and revvvved up, it will be straight on my bike, and off to Sam Bond´s for a strong dark beer in a mason jar. Any takers!?

Rabo de Toro

The rest of my stay in Sevilla was delightful. Kinda like a vacation within a vacation, spending the mornings sightseeing, and the HOT 100+ afternoons in the rooftop pool with a frosty Alhambra Negra beer in hand. Of course I went to another flamenco show- but this one was a very local scene, and we may have been the only tourists... well worth the walk across the river. It was improv´ dancing by family members of the owner and random couples in the audience. Got some good video to share later.

Ronda was a breezey and welcomed break from the heat and congestion of the bigger cities. It is small enough to walk around in about 2 hours, but absolutely stunning. It is surrounded on three sides by a deep gorge, which precedes the mountainscape of the Serranía de Ronda. There is no lack of walking trails along the gorge either. Enjoyed 1Euro tapas and beer the night i arrived, then set out for the Cuevas de las Piletas. Took the train, and arrived in Benaoján at about 7:45 am. and went into a little cafe near the station for coffee and directions to the caves. This was the first time I have gotten that ¨get the hell outta here¨feeling. There were about 7 men drinking straight liquor ... lots of it... before heading to their jobs (manual labor type stuff judging from shoes and clothes). They couldnt believe i was going to walk. ¨sola?¨ one said, asking if i was alone. i just said hm? like i didnt understand. Then another one said he would take me... i was a half second from jupming on the next train... anywhere, when in walked the sweet, safe policeman! he ended up giving me a ride all the way, so i just had to kill about an hour or so before the caves opened. I practiced using the self timer on my camera, and enjoyed the cool mountain morning. As it turns out, i ended up talking politics in spanish with the old man who owns the caves and gives the tour... he loved me, and after about three hours, we were best friends, and there were enough people there to go on the tour. The cuevas were awesome! Lots of paintings inside, some as old as 30,000 years old! Human and animal bones, old torch posts, fireplaces, paintings of a giant fish, calendars, mountains, bulls, horses, goats, shaymen, and more. One of the formations in the cave made hollowed out collumns that you could hit with your palm to make different tones... very cool! We had a gas lam for every five people, but i think everyone was jealous of my headlamp. Caught a ride halfway down the mountain with a Dutch couple, then ran hard the rest of the way so i would catch the next train. That night i treated myself to the local specialty of Rabo de Toro (aka Bull´s Tail)... i know, i know... but i would have been curious about it the rest of the trip if i didnt have it. Its basically just like stew beef on vertebrae looking bones. It was really salty, and so greasy that my lips would stick together! At least i tried it- lord know they kill enough bulls with all the bull fights down there. I had some bocadillas later on (mini sandwiches).

I did end up touring the bull ring. It was interesting, but the more I learn about it, the less i want to support any of it. Basically, you stick little spears into the bull until it is weak and delirious, then they stick a sword into the back of its neck.. hopefully killing it the first time. Ususally the bull has to suffer through two swipes of the sword before stammering off to die. !Olay!

WWOOFing Wimp

Feels like it has been forever since I have been on the internet, or been able to speak a sentance in English, and have someone understand. I find myself speking in broken English and talking slowly even to Americans, just because that is all I have heard in English or understood in Spanish for the past 4 or 5 days. I am in Sevilla now, it was a last minute decision, but a very good one. I lasted 3-4 days at La Cascada. My expectation was that there would be other WWOOFers there, or people vacationing there. Oh No! it was small, hot, and beautiful. However, other than Balta, who owns the place and works and lives very naked, there were other people there for one day: Carolína, who was 30 something, spoke a a few phrases in spanish, and was paying to stay and relax there. Sebatián, who was maybe in his 40s, probably 80 lbs, a construction worker, and was eating only fruit (yes, Dad, this would make him a ¨fruitarian¨). And one other guy whose name I could never pronounce, and so i cant remember (though i am tempted to make one up for the sake of the story), he was a bigger fella- i am talking about his gut- and was always complaining that he was too old for this work, and he dragged a bit. The two men, Blata, and I worked together the first day planting and watering tomatoes, and builing a stone and earthen wall in the river to create a large swimming and bathing area. This was HARD labor, and I was trying my damnedest to keep up, and never complain. The men worked in the buff (except Sebastián aka skeletor, though he worked like a horse). I lasted about 1 hour nakes, then decided i would prefer my bathing suit... amongst other reasons, there would have been too much sun lotion involved. All the men commented on how white I was, and tried to have me work in the shade when possible. The next day they all left, and it was just me and Balta. Once in a while I would see his partner, Marta, but she worked in the city, and ¨liked her space¨. Over all I would work from about 9:30 to 10 at night with a 2 hour siesta during the afternoon heat. I hauled large stones from up a hill to the river, carried bucket after bucket of earth down the trail to the river wall, shoveled rocks and dirt out of the pool, hoed the land, planted tomatoes, watered plants 2 watering cans at a time, collecting water from the river each time, soaked and peeled cacao and almonds, pick oranges, and help prep and clean up meals. After a few days I`d had enough, and had to get the hell out of there. Nesecito decansar! I needed to rest, and that was enough nakedness and manual work for me. I´ll admit it... I am a WWOOFing wimp- I couldnt hang. So I scheduled a trip to Sevilla at the last minute.

I have to say that the experience of eating all raw, fresh, organic foods was invigorating! One of the best things I got to do was pick an almond fruit? off the tree crack it open between two rocks, and eat the moist nut right there where it grew. Eating all raw, local, organic foods left me feeling a vibrance and wellness I had not known before. I spent a lot of time reading Daivd Wolf´s book, The Sunfood Diet System. The raw food lifestyle makes a lot of sense- you hardly create any waste, and because you don`t cook any food you aren`t loosing any of the water, or wasting energy resources (coal or wood... which contributes to the deforestation in non 1st world countries), and I found that I didn`t need to eat the quantity of food i would normally eat. I could go on and on, but you all can do your own research. Definitely investing in a juicer when i return, and purchasing David Wolf´s book at Red Barn.

I am now in Sevilla, at a sweet hostel- thank you Let´s Go- for only 20€ a night. It has a swanky feel, very clean, dorm style rooms, international travelers, and a pool on the roof! Last night I got here, hopped in the awesome shower, and headed out with a large for group for the BEST tapas, and a flamenco show. I think I love flamenco! I want to see more, and I wish I could embrace the passion these performers have, and dance and sing and play drums and guitar that way.. WOW! I will put up some pictures soon... I saw the computer open, so I grabbed it. Now I am off to the included buffet breakfast.

Barcelona a Madrid

I fell in love with Barcelona! I will definitley schedule a few days there before heading home. I went out for tapas and flamenco with some friends from the Hostal :Marrianne, Jenn, and Magda from Sweden, Marco from Finland, and Rohini who has a radio show in Bombay. They served us pitcher after pitcher of Sangria, which may explain some of the singing and swaying that is going on in some of the pictures later that night. The flamenco show was super sultry and passionate. The singers voice was phenominal, and the one female dancer commanded the stage. Very strong and sexy!

The next day I ventured up to the Montjuïc area, where I toured the Fundació Miró and the NMAC (Nacional Museu de Art de Catalunya). I got lots of postcards of Miró art work for the mini art unit I do with my students on Joan Miró, then walked through some botanical gardens on my way to the MNAC where I took an obnoxious amount of pictures (which I posted on flickr). For some reason I really liked asll the little demons in the Gothic art- very reminiscent of Where the Wild Things Are- so i took a lot of photos of things like that and other details that caught my eye. (Brian, you would have loved some of the tile works and mosaics there.) The picture of the tantdum bicycle was my favorite.

Over all, Barcelona was clean, easy to navigate, hot, and uncongested. The longer I was there, the more I wanted to see and do. I dont think I had to wait in a line once, and while i was at the NMAC, I was often the only person in the room.
I took the train through the Pyrennes and countryside to Madrid.The train was smooth, fast, and airconditioned. For train travel, i suggest buying your Euro rail pass in the states, and making your reservactions once you get here... its about half the money, but you have to wait in line for a while. Since i am traveling alone, I have had no problems getting reservations for trains or Hostles.
Got to Plaza De Ort last night, which is more of a hotel. I have a cute room with remote controlled air conditioning, and a full bathroom to myslef. Last night I took the advice of my Let´s Go travel book (which hasnt failed me yet!) and went to a place called Cuevas de Sésamo. I walked down into this little tavern, where piano music and smoke filled the air. I entered during the pink panther song, ordered some olives and a small pitcher of sangría. As I was finishing off the pitcher, a girl came up to me and, in spanish, invited my to sit with her and her friend. Turns out they are both Americans, both named Sarah, and they went to Harvard together, and now are getting PhDs in spanish . One of them worked for Lets Go, and the other is now teaching a class through NYU at the university here in Madrid. We drank more Sangría, and enjoyed the music. We have plans to meet up for a rooftop sunset dinner at Casa Granada.

Tomorrow i will go to Malaga, take the bus to Ojen, then follow the yellow painted rocks up the trail to La Cascada where I will be WWOOFing on the Higienist and Raw food retreat.

Bonita Barcelona

I have made it to my hostel, and i am typing slowly on a keyboard with have of the letters rubbed off. Everyone has been so nice. All the people i have met speak English, and it is spoken asourn the hostel as the common language...few! I started off in a swanky hotel Dad set up for my by the airport so i could adjust to the time and rest. The next day I set off on the metro (subway) for my hostel. Of course I got off at the wrong stop (Brian, dont roll your eyes!) and i had to take a taxi to the city center. I shared the cab with Constance, a girl from France, who used to live here. She gave me some good pointers for navigating the city.

When I got to the San Jordi Arago Hostel it was a bit of a shock for me... like going back in time to the first day in the dorms. Lots of young people, little space, little privacy. I am used to it now, and impressed by the diversity of folks here. I share a room with 6 other people- 2 from Sweden, 2 from France, 1 from the states, and 1 from Televiv. I have to admit I felt pretty anxious and a bit helpless and sad at first, thinking ¨what did i get myself into¨. But that didn´t last long.

Yesterday I got right on my feet and walked around the city. I saw several Gaudi buildings, and toured La Pedrera. It was so strange and beautiful- Dr. Seuss must have drawn inspiration from him. I took lots of pictures, and had passersby take horribly unflattering pictures of me. I will try to post them later, once i dig out my card reader.

Last night was the Euro Cup final, and I went out with a group to the Barri Gotic neighborhood- tall buildings with narrow streets that open up to large courtyards with fountains, street performers, and obvious tourists. Every place was packed, but we somehow managed to find a bar playing straight reggae with only a few people at the counter. I was with-3 girls from Sweden, 1 guy from Televiv, 1 guy from Baltimore who live in Dubi working construction, and 1 guy from Finland (TOTAL Nels look a like... i took pictures that i will post later... he even does the ¨yeaop¨). We got a spot right in front of the big pull down screen with a table and chairs. Anyway, the bar got packed, hot and loud. It was full of energy! Whrn the game was over the streets were crazy! People in Spanish flag capes dancing and chanting ¨Es-pa-ña¨ in the streets, air horns, noise makers, and tossed rolls of T.P. filled the air. Guys were climbing up th lamposts, and swings, while others were atop news stands juggling and balancing futbols on their heads. It was wild! We took the long walk home through the crowds.

Today I ventured out to the supermarket. THAT was interesting. I actually really enjoyed it (the AC probably helped). I still want to see a few more museams here and hit up the beach. Whatever i dont do now, i can do at the tail end of the trip when i retuen to Barcelona. Tonight I think i will join a group going out for tapas and ¨chupitos¨or shots, then go out to a dance club.

I hope everyone is well. The bustle of the city makes me appreciate the simple rivers and trees of Oregon.

Eugene to Palos Verdes

Zephyr and I arrived in San Francisco around 1 am. Dom and Mer had a great set up waiting for me downstairs. In the morning I got to meet my nephew, Leo, and Zephyr was reunited with Mac Gyver. Around noon I left with the lunch my brother Dom had packed for me. I enjoyed the first turkey sandwich for lunch. I got out of the car at a gas station, and Zephyr assumed the other sandwich must have been for him, so he helped himself. He spent the next hour sleeping off his big meal.

Now I am at my folks' house in Palos Verdes. We just had our famous family spaghetti dinner with my brother Ben and his girlfriend Alexandra. Now it is time to make the last decisions about what stays and what goes in the pack (unfortunately Zeph' won't fit).