Hammy Treats and Hostel Suites?

To travel from Mendoza to Buenos Aires, you either fly or take an overnight bus. Meika and I elected to endure the 14 hours bus ride, and very wisely chose to purchase executivo (first class) tickets. The cost was several pesos more than the turista class, but when we converted it to dollars, the difference wasn't more than a few bucks. This ended up being one of the highlights of the trip. Our seats were on the top level of a double decker bus, and I was thrilled to discover they reclined to a nearly flat position with a foot rest. Our journey began with a game of BINGO! Our attendant, Andres- who we became fast friends with, called numbers over the microphone as we eagerly punched out our numbers. Not wanting to be the stupid American calling out a false "bingo", I was sure to double check my numbers with Meika after each one was called out. I would like to say that we won, but the lucky card belonged to the lady in front us, who received a bottle of wine. Shortly after the game, our movie and dinner service began. We dined on hammy treats and alfahores (a cookie layered with dulce de leche and covered in chocolate... they are everywhere) and accompanied by packets of mayo and salt. Wine was complementary and so we made the best of our meal while we watched Leathal Weapon... to our surprise and delight a second course of turkey, potato fritters, and overcooked veggies came, as well as refills on the vino. We giggled and munched our dinners while strapped up in our Andesmar issued dining bibs. By now your thinking, it cant get much better, but it does. With the start of our second feature film, Twilight (these were all in English with Spanish subtitles... Meika was brave and snuck over to the electronics area while Andres was away to turn up the volume for us) we were served champagne- I let Andres know this was Meika's favorite, and he kept it coming! With a swollen full moon out the window, and bellies full of beverages we snoozed and cruised all the way to Buenos Aires. We bid our new friend, Andres, farewell and tipped him for his great service.

Upon arriving at the Florida Suites Hostel downtown, we realized this was NOT what we were looking for. We immediately nicknamed it 'the dorms' because of its sterility, lack of character, haunting smell, and abundance of drunk high school graduates. Everything was clean and nice, but it was lacking the charm we were looking for. There was no common kitchen area, but in its place was a cafeteria type set up on the bottom floor. We made the best of it, and decided to change accommodations after our upcoming trip to Uruguay.

Buenos Aires is definitely a big city, and we were right in the heart of the hustle and bustle. Street vendors, performers, McDonalds, tourists cars and cabs were everywhere. We set off to soak up some serenity at the Botanical and Japanese gardens while the winter sun still hung in the sky. Just down the street from there, we visited MELBA, the modern art museum. It housed some intriguing pieces, including a self portrait by Frida Kahlo, and a portrait by Diego Rivera, among other things. However, most of it was a little arts and crafts for my taste. The following day we took a train to Tigre, a popular get away about 35 km north of BA. There was plenty of shopping and views of the delta, which has a rich latte color due to its high content of iron from the jungle streams of South America that feed into it. It was an all day trip, and we spent as little time as possible in 'the dorms', aside from sleeping, using the Internet, and having few beverages in the basement bar.

The Beef on Argentina: Wine and Swine in Mendoza

Mendoza was the perfect introduction to Argentina. It is a smaller desert city tucked in next to the foothills of the Andes. Meika met me at the airport and we taxied back to her house that she shares with her dad, Tom, and his hilarious and adorable dog, Cachao. It is a funky and spacious two story house. The ground floor includes a kitchen, living room, a garage used to house bikes and firewood, a dining space attached to a larger room with a fireplace used for band practice and parties, a bedroom, and an oudoor patio. The second floor includes Meikaś bedroom and a spare bedroom which I stayed in, both with little balconies overlooking the street. There is also a laundryroom, and a rooftop patio used for drying clothes, asados, stargazing and wine drinking. It connects to the yard via a sprial staircase.

Winter here is mild, and I wish I had brought my sandals. The air is warm and very dry. Meika is a great host and I definitely made the most of my time in Mendoza. Due to La Gripe A (the swine flu) overtaking this country some music shows were cancelled, and the dance clubs all closed. People have their faces covered in scarves or masks on the streets and on public transportation. From what I understand, Argentina is the most affected country. Brasil and other neighboring countries are advising their citizens not to travel here. Unfortunately, Cachao got into my stash of Host Defense and fish oil, but so far so good. Being a school teacher, I think my immune system is pretty strong.

Meika and I treated ourselves to a fancy steak dinner. Thank God we shared because when the dish arrived it was a butterfly cut with two slabs of beef each the size of Andrea the Giantś palm , and down the center rested a kabob with more beef, oinions and tomatoes. It was DELICIOUS! After dinner we met up with Alexis (who I also know from Eugene, and happens to also be living here) at a rooftop loft art party. Everyone is very friendly here, and they really seem to take their time to know and talk with you, not just get your name like in the states. Of course there was lots of wine and Fernet, a local bitter liquer usually mixed with Coke. I was given my Argentinian name\ nickname, "Cielito", which means little cloud. Later we walked to a Chino con Africa, a bar, where we had to wait for police to leave the area before we could enter... lots of restrictions due to La Gripe A, once inside there was great music, more friends, and every so often they cleared the dancefloor because of Gripe.

Bikes and Wine filled another day. We rented bikes out in Maipù and rode to a few Bodegas to sip on some local Malbec.... mmm! Meika and I laughed a lot, and even popped some sweet wheelies on our crusers. Another day I borrowed Tomś bike and Meika led me on a ride up to Challao where we got views of the city and the foothills. I got a flat back tire on the way up, and I am proud to say that I successfully fixed my first flat (all that watching other people do it for me really paid off!). I spent some time walking around the parks and plazas, and overall really enjoyed getting more of a local experience in Mendoza. Tom and Meika took me to a friends birthday party one evening, catered with empanandas, wine, and dulcé de leche treats. We also celebrated Maria Inezś birthday at the house with some dinner and friends. I have had lots of opportunities to practice my Spanish, which I am relearning in each country I visit- pronounciation and vocabulary seem to change from region to region.

The most beautiful day by far was a day trip with Alexis and Meika to Cacheuta, where we spent a warm sunny day soaking in the thermal pools. Out in the middle of nowhere, tucked in a high, dry desert cliffside landscape, we enjoyed the natural waters, landscape, and a few cervesas. It was a Monday, and not crowded at all. I love vacation. I love that I get nealry 4 AR pesos to the US dollar.

More to come on overnight bus rides and Buenos Aires.